Category Archives: Pet Care

How to Stop a Cat from Biting or Scratching

House cats by nature are calm and loving beings. They are also pretty smart, they will go to great length to avoid hurting their humans. However, it wouldn’t be too difficult to imagine a cat taking a swipe at a cheeky kid that is pulling its tail or a cat engaging in an energetic play forget itself and take a nip. A cat scratch or bite can be infectious and develop into annoying diseases such as cat-scratch disease and is best to avoid it. It is handy to know ways to prevent scratching and biting, and how to response when the cat is on the war path.

If You Have Been Bitten or Scratched:

  • Retain your composure. Never yell, hit, or chase after your cat. These actions are counterproductive in the long run.
  • Instead, use your voice and body to signal a disapproval by saying “NO” immediately firmly and authoritatively. Stare at the cat to signal your annoyance as well as dominance. For cheekier or aggressive cat, you may need to clap your hands loudly once or twice while simultaneously saying “NO” to further emphasize your dominance.
  • Disengage yourself from the cat as soon as possible. Stop touching the cat immediately, move your limbs under attack well out of its striking range. Walk away dismissively and leave the room until the cat has calmed down. The signal of disapproval must be consistent, cuddling, petting, or soothing must be denied temporarily for at least 20 – 30 minutes.
  • A way out for the cat. If a snarling, hissing cat is blocking the way, preventing you from leaving the room, it is likely it feels trapped and interprets your walking towards him as trouble, defense by attacking is on the radar. The best thing to do in this situation is simply to step aside and let the cat pass first before going your way.
  • Refrain from giving treats or food to the cat for 20 – 30 minutes following a scratching or biting incident. You would not want the cat to have the misconception of scratching or biting is rewarding.

Curtail Scratching and Biting Behavior:

  • Start young or as soon as possible to teach your cat acceptable limits. When your kitty nips you while playing, say “NO” firmly and move your limp away, disengage yourself and walk away to signal the game is done. Done consistently, the kitten will soon associate biting or scratching as dismissal and will refrain from doing so.
  • If you want to discourage love bites, pressing back steadily but gently against the bite will make it unpleasant for the cat and prevent further chomp down. Pulling away too fast from a play grab or bite is likely to get yourself clawed or bitten accidentally
  • Invest in a cat scratching pole or two will keep the cat’s claw short and also provide a good workout session for your cat. A contented and tired cat is less likely to cause any harm than one that is bored with excess energy.
  • Engage your cat in multiple 5-minute play sessions with laser light or LED pointer, string toys, a roll of yarn or other suitable toys that do not include your fingers or toes will keep your cat stimulated, energy well spent, and all your digits safe.
  • If a cat is particularly problematic and does not react to normal technique, neutering is an option. A neutered cat is known to be more sociable and easier to get along with.

Learn to read aggression behavior:

  • A displeasure cat may hiss, growl, or ululating, or tipping back his ears flat against his head.
  • A cat ready for preemptive strike likely to arch his back with skin rippling, and growl aggressively. His whiskers may point forward and mouth draws back. Ears flat and point backward.
  • A cornered cat likely to crouch and look nervously from side to side, looking for an escape path. Failure to do so will likely see him strike out defensively.

Possible reasons why cats scratch or bite:

  • The cat may be anxious or stressed. A change in people, environment, and abusive toddler may cause the cat to feel cornered and strike out. The best option is to restore the ambiance as much as possible, and as soon as possible. Tune down the volume on TV, separates the crying or noisy kids from the cat. Teach the kids not to chase the cat around or pull its tail. No hitting or shouting at the cat. Learn how to pet the cat the correct way.
  • The cat may be in pain or not well. A cat in pain or unwell may become defensive and lash out. A trip to a veterinarian clinic may determine the health issue and proper treatment can be prescribed. Once the underlying health issue is treated, the cat temperament is likely to improve as well.
  • An older cat may not welcome being cuddled or picked up. They just want to be left alone in peace.
  • The cat may merely too excited in play. To curtail over play, please refer to earlier sections of this article.

Cats react best to positive reinforcement and consistency in treatments, praising and treat rewarding for appropriate behavior will mold your cat to be well behaved and well loved. Scolding, hitting, chasing and other negative gestures likely to turn your cat into a scared confused cat ready to defense itself at any possible perceived threat.

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Cleaning Out Cat Litter Box

Every sane person loves to cuddle a cat, but I doubt the equally sane person would actually willingly, happily, voluntarily loves to clean out a cat litter box. But clean we must, for the health of our beloved cats as well as for the health of the cohabiting humans.

Cat feces are known to contain numerous pathogens that are harmful to humans. Among them, Bartonella henselae bacteria which causes cat-scratch disease and Toxoplasma gondii parasite which causes toxoplasmosis. Pregnant women are advised not to handle cat waste if possible as these pathogens may harm the development of fetuses and the health of the mothers.

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) 2012 pet ownership statistic, thirty percent of American households own cats, averaging 2.1 cats per household, translating to more than 74 million cats living closely with us. That also means there are lots of cat litter to clear every single day across America.

In fact, cat litter clearing is such a headache to some cat owners that a wide range of litter box designs has sprung out, ranging from the old fashion open tray, disposable, to a self-cleaning litter box and everything in between. Some clever owners have even taught their equally clever cats to use the toilet and flushing after use.

Our feline friends are fastidious in nature. Each cat prefers its own litter box and the litter box cleaned and changed on regular basis. Failure to do so, the cat will likely choose to do its business where you do not want them to be. You have been warned, so don’t get mad.

If you have a basic tray type litter box, use a scooper to gather the waste and remove them from the litter at least once a day. Once a week, throw out the soiled litter, thoroughly wash the box with detergent and water, dried, and refill with fresh litter to about 2-3 inches high. Waste and soiled litter need to go into a wide-mouth trash bag immediately and into the outdoor waste receptacle when removing from tray to minimize flying litter dust. Avoid cleaning the kitty’s litter box in the kitchen at all cost, instead, do it either outdoor, in the bathtub, or in the laundry room. You might want to consider wearing mask and gloves if you are unwell or prone to catching whatever flu bugs flying around. Don’t forget to wash your hands thoroughly after handling the raking or cleaning.

If you are allergic to litter box cleaning or simply too occupied with other things in life, there are various self-cleaning litter box designs that you may consider investing. The well-designed litter boxes allow you weeks of litter-free experience. One of the better designs I have seen is a self cleaning litter box with disposable box, prefilled with crystalline material. When your cat uses the litter box, the crystals immediately absorb moisture and odor and begin to dehydrate solids. Some minutes later, a rake automatically sweeps the waste into a covered compartment, leaving the litter near soiled-less and fresh. You may not even need to replace the disposable litter tray for half a month or so. Nearly hands-off convenience and excellent odor control. I want one too.

The ultimate bliss is probably when your cat uses the toilet just as you do. It is possible to train your cat to use the toilet seat. Yes, it requires time, patience and the correct tools but think about the time and cost saving a couple of months down the road!

During the toilet training period, you will be shaping your cat behavior and slowly progressing it to use the toilet. Training starts by placing a training seat on your toilet bowl filled with a sufficient amount of litter. After your cat has adapted, you will cut a small hole in the center of the training seat and slowly make the hole larger and larger until it’s completely open. When this is complete your cat will have completely adapted to using the toilet and you will no longer need the training seat. You may even train your cat to flush after use. Based on your toilet flushing mechanism, you can put a toy or catnip on a flat top press button to encourage them to press on the button. If you have a lever type of flushing mechanism, you may need to tie a string between the lever to something nearby so that your cat can pull on the string to trigger flushing.

When all done and successful, you can really sit back with a cuppa with your cat on your lap and a book in your hands. What a bliss! It may take months before your cat is totally adjusted to using the toilet, but the reward will soon get you to forget about the pain and the numerous accidents. Just be patient and back off a little if your cat becomes reluctant or confused.

We love our kitties, don’t we?

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Do cats actually need their nails clipped?

If your cat’s digits look more like talons than nails, then the answer is a definitely ‘yes’. Otherwise, it depends.

My mum’s cat, Devil, is a monster with the meanest looking talons. How do they get to be so long? Well, for one thing, my mum has this belief that nail trimming is for the benefits of humans but do nothing for the cat. Secondly, he absolutely would not let anyone else come close to its paws. So grew they did!
Pixabay Image 948432 My mum does have a valid point, except that Devil has a bit of trouble moving around the house because his long claws entangled on things. His long claws also turn potential human playmates away as you’re likely to get scratched one way or the other. In principle, I guess cats suppose to take care of their claws by scratching on things or chew them down naturally. But Devil, the lazy and mighty, has turned into a fat Grim Ripper with ten miniature scythes at his disposal.

Cats claws, literally and figuratively speaking, can be an agent of death. Not only their claws can get razor-sharp that give you nasty scratches or punctured holes intentionally or accidentally, they are known for harboring harmful pathogens that can caused illnesses such as cat-scratch disease. If the claws get too long, it is uncomfortable for the cat as well, their claws get caught into rugs and fabrics, and bloody paw may happen, or the nails have gotten so long, they curved inwards and cut into the toe pads.

Invest in a couple of suitable scratching poles and entice the cat to use them, is probably the least stressful way to keep the claw length in checked. Please read related articles: How to Select a Suitable Scratching Post for Your Cat and Training Your Cat to Use the Scratching Post may be helpful in providing necessary information on scratching material selection as well as how to get the kitty to actually use them!

However, human interference is probably needed every so often, especially for indoor cats, less active cats and senior cats. If the claws are visible when the cat is just lounging around, a trim is likely due. A cat usually will grow accustomed to toenails being trimmed if the session is full of petting, praising, and plentiful of tasty treats. Give it a few trial runs before calling it quits and speed dial the vet or groomer. It can be a wonderful bonding time between the kitty and you.

How To Keep Your Cat’s Claws Short may be helpful for new cat owner accomplishes the task. Give it a try!

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Is Your Cat Healthy?

A bouncy and healthy cat is a joy to have around. If your cat is healthy, you are likely to be healthier too. But What does it take to keep your cat healthier besides regular visits to the veterinarian?

The number one on the list is the food! Cats are not meant to be a vegan, they need meat in their main meals. However good intention you are, feeding them vegan cat food (full of synthetic proteins and loads of carbohydrate) is a very bad idea. Cats, being descendants of desert-dwelling creatures, drink considerably less water than dogs. In the wild, 70-80% of their water requirement come from their meals directly. Dry food tends to be carbohydrate heavy and lacking in moisture. Wet canned or fresh meat based food is a much better choice for your fluffy. And please make sure clean water is always available.

Meeting their natural instincts should be a priority. A dedicated litter box in a well-ventilated space for each cat is highly recommended. A litter box placed in the basement or some dark corner is probably not going to work very well. Natural materials such as alfalfa, wheat, corn, cedar, pine are all excellent choices as litter fillings. You can mix in some baking soda to help eliminate any smell. The litter of about 4-inch thick should provide sufficient depth for the kitty to dig and cover his poop. Ideally, the litter box should be scoop twice a day and completely washed and replaced with new litter fillings weekly.

Cats are agile hunters. If your cat is confined to indoor, a selection of toys, wall mounted perches/shelves or playpen are needed to keep them occupied. You may want to invest in an outdoor enclosure as well. A little catnip here and there will certainly pleases your cat.

If your cat has no access to outdoor, some sorts of suitable scratching materials are recommended to be placed in the house for the cat to scratch on. claws A good scratch keeps the claws in checked and keep your cat limber and contented. Articles – How to select a suitable scratching post for your cat and Training Your Cat To Use The Scratching Post likely to provide you with useful information on scratching post utilization.

A daily brushing session (or vacuuming if your cat does incline) will help to reduce hairball build-up in kitty’s digestive tract, as well as keep dander and flea in checked. Your cat will love the attention bestow on her if it is done right and will adore you in return! Keep them clean and claws short.

It is recommended to always travel with the kitty in a carrier box especially for long distant journey. It is dangerous for both driver and kitty to travel in a moving vehicle unrestrained. You wouldn’t want to see a kitty projectile in case of emergency.

And finally, let them show off their adoration to you, whether it is in the form of heart-melting head rubbing, paw kneading, purring or in the somewhat awkward situation of being presented with a half devoured bird or mice. Accept them all in good grace and with a laugh or two!

Training Your Cat to Use the Scratching Post

A common worry among new cat owners is – how to get the cat to scratch at his scratching post and not the furniture? The answer is part cat psychology and part perseverance!
Scratching is a typical feline trait. The cat flexes its body and limbs, has a nice robust scratch, and marked the spot as “his”. It also liberates the claws of aged, sloughed layers. It is part “territorial marking” and part exercise.
Cats are territorial animals, they understand very well what is theirs and what is not if shown. By making full use of their territorial tendency is probably the best approach by letting them know which furniture is “theirs” and which is off limit. To make this work, it is advisable to have a few pieces of cat furniture around and then educate them which are for their enjoyments, and which are not. Here are some suggestions.

Start them young! Scratching behavior starts to emerge around the time that kittens are being weaned off milk. Training should start as soon as this behavior shows. Older cats likely require longer training period but absolutely trainable. Just be tenacious, kind but consistent.

Choose a scratching post that the cat likes. You may need to carry out some trial and error to find a post your cat likes. Most cats like the vertical post. The post should be tall and solid enough for your cat to fully stretch out his body and four limbs without tumbling. An unstable post is most likely ignored by your cat. Some feline friends like to claw on horizontal surfaces.
Whether it is vertical or horizontal, the post can be surfaced with sisal rope, carpet material, or cardboard. Some cats like to scratch on a tree trunk or rough wood with the bark still on it.

Place the scratching post where the cat needs it. This is crucial. Cats usually like to limber up and scratch after awakening from a nap, so put the post next to wherever he likes to nap. You may need to put a few posts around the house where napping occurs. Place one next to an irresistible furniture may protect your furniture from further scratching.

Use encouragements and dissuasion. Dangling a favorite toy or rubbing a little catnip on a new post would encourage your cat to use it. Don’t forget to praise him for using it. A little cooing and treat rewarding would go a long way.
When he begins to scratch on a piece of off-limit furniture, you need to promptly let him know that this is not allowed by uttering a word in loud, low voice such as “CLAWS!” or “STOPS!”. This usually startles them and stops them in their tracks. Then pick him up and place him in front of his nearest scratching post. Most cats learn pretty quickly.

A verbal control method, accompany by appropriate encouragement is a far better method than physical reprimand such as spraying a cat with water to discipline the cat. Cats are highly intelligent creatures, an “insulting” gesture may produce counter-productive behavior.

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Common Diseases Affecting House Cats in America

According to 2013 pet ownership statistic census, there are well over 73 million cats and 71 million dogs living in American households. It is estimated more than half of American households claim ownership to at least one cat or dog. Increasingly too, cats or dogs are considered as a family member rather than mere pets for amusement or companionship.

Despite the common saying of cats having nine lives, they do suffer from a multitude of illnesses, some are mild, some are deadly. Here are some of the most common illnesses that often strike house cats.

Renal failure
Renal failure, due to a diseased or deteriorating kidney, is the leading cause of illnesses in cats. Age, genetic predisposition, and environmental safety are contributing factors of renal failures. There are two types of renal failures, chronic and acute. Chronic renal failure (CRF) is due to the gradual deterioration of kidney function in processing waste and fluids. Nearly 50% of cats above 15 years of age are suffering from chronic renal failure. Symptoms are insatiable thirst with excessive urination initially, vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, constipation, loss of appetite, weight loss, and bad breath at the later stage. Because the illness progresses slowly, cat owners may not notice the subtle rise in water consumption initially. By the time other symptoms arise, the illness likely has reached an irreversible stage. Although CRF is incurable and progressively deteriorating, a combination of wet diet, IV fluids, and medication can keep an ailing cat comfortable.
Acute renal failure (ARF) is caused by sudden cease functioning of the kidney, usually due to ingestion of poisonous material such as antifreeze, or illnesses that severely affected kidney functions. Possible symptoms include difficulty in urination, vomiting, bad breath, refusal to eat, poor coordination, and seizure, Prompt veterinary attention to remove toxins and balancing body electrolyte are crucial steps for a damaged kidney to recover.

Feline Leukemia
Feline leukemia is a common viral infectious disease affecting feline health around the world. It is spread from one cat to another through bodily fluids, including nose discharge, urine, and saliva, whether through bites, sharing food and water bowls, or affectionate nursing, licking and grooming. Kittens are at higher risk in catching the disease than adult cats.
Feline leukemia can bring forward a variety of complications, including severe multiple organ infections and inflammation, anemia, diarrhea and cancer. Like renal failure, there is no cure for feline leukemia, but veterinarian record has shown that the disease rarely occurs in vaccinated feline populations.

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)
FIV is the feline equivalent of human HIV disease. Feral cats, free-ranging cats, and territorial tomcats are most at risk in catching FIV as it is spread primarily through bite wounds. Unlike feline leukemia, casual friendly contact among cats does not actively caused FIV infections.
FIV is a terminal disease that caused irreversible damage to a feline’s immune system. The virus may stay dormant for years but once activated, the cats will experience increasing bouts of enlarged lymph nodes, gums inflammation, tongue and mouth ulcers, weight loss, skin infections, diarrhea, eye infection and cancer.
The best way to avoid contracting FIV is to keep your cat indoors, and vaccination up to date.

Feline Panleukopenia (or known as Feline Distemper)
Feline panleukopenia is a very contagious and deadly viral disease in cats, especially for kittens. The virus, found in feline bodily fluids, feces, and fleas, can easily spread through contaminated litter trays, food and water bowls, household soft furnishing and clothing. The virus spreads quickly and can kill within a day or two of contraction. Once diagnose is confirmed through fecal and blood tests, aggressive treatment typically involved blood transfusions, injections of antibiotics and vitamins to fight the disease quickly. A signature symptom of feline distemper is the tail and back leg gnawing, along with the typical behavior of refusal to eat, lack of energy, diarrhea, and vomiting. Again, as with most cat diseases, prevention is better than cure. Vaccinated cats have much lower rate of infection than unvaccinated populations.

Feline Rabies
Feline Rabies is a very dangerous zoonotic disease. An infected cat can pass the disease to other household pets and humans too. It is usually spread to cats through bites from wild animals such as a raccoon. An infected cat may exhibit strange behavior, yowling, drooling, lack of coordination, fever, weight loss and depression. Once contracted, the cat is usually put down as there is no cure or treatment for feline rabies. The best way to prevent your cat from catching the disease is to keep vaccination up to date and keep it indoor as much as possible.

Roundworm and Tapeworm Infestations
Cats can get worms into their digestive systems through swallowing infected insects, flea, small animals, birds, and contaminated soil. Worms can invade a cat’s intestines, stomach, bloodstream, and organs, sapping nutrients from the host, causing diarrhea, vomiting, distended belly, loss of appetite, and weight loss.
Scheduled administration of oral deworming medication is effective in preventing built up of roundworms and tapeworms in the body. Keeping the cat indoors and observe general hygiene and cleanliness are also crucial steps in preventing worm infestation.

Urinary Tract Disease (UTD)
Urinary Tract Disease is characterized by the presence of blood in cat urine and difficulty in urination. It is caused by blockage of urine flow from the bladder to the urethra tubes. Dehydration, cystitis, bacteria infection, or dry cat food with high ash and mineral content can be possible causes of UTD. Medication and a change in diet should be able to bring the infection under control.

Cats are sensitive and lovable animals, to have them living among us is a blessing. Loving and takes care of them ensures many years of  togetherness.

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How to select a suitable scratching post for your cat

Cats need to scratch. Period! When your cat raked its claw across your new sofa, it was not trying to avenge you for not giving into its demand for treats, nor was it trying to sharpen its claws for better sticking its claw into you the next time. Cats scratch for a variety of reasons. First of all, like human nails, their claws continue to grow throughout their life. They keep the length in check by gnawing on their rear claws and scratch their front paws on hard surfaces to remove the dead outer layer. It is also a way for cats to mark their territories by leaving visual scratch marks and olfactory marks on prominent places where other cats can easily sense them. A good scratch also provides excellent physical exercise for the whole body, allowing the cat to stretch out its body, feet, and paws. Cats also scratch when they need to release pent up emotions. It is common for a cat to scratch energetically after greeting its owner home from a long day away.

The availability of suitable scratch surfaces will make a happy and healthy cat and a contented owner with intact furniture, curtain, and carpet. If you are in the process of getting a cat or newly acquire a cat, it is wise to spend some effort to look into their scratching needs ahead.

If a cat is allowed to roam outdoor, the cat is likely to find its own favorite scratching surfaces, be it a tree trunk or a wooden fence post. If a cat spends most of its time indoor, a good scratching post or two is a must. You can move a natural log or tree trunk of optimum height and weight indoor for the enjoyment of your cat. There are also a variety of scratching posts in the stores with mind-boggling shapes and designs. Store bought scratching posts are usually separated into corrugated cardboard base, rough sisal rope base, or soft carpeted base. Many cats enjoy scratching on corrugated cardboard scratching boards or posts. It is less expensive and come in various intriguing shapes, good for lying on or hide in as well. A post wrapped with sisal rope provides similar scratching sensation to the cat as scratching on a tree stump. Scratching posts with sisal rope are usually more expensive but they are value for money in the long run as they are very durable and hardy. Scratching posts surfaced with carpet material may appeal to human but may not be the best choice for cats as the soft surfaces not only do not provide adequate friction, but the thread loops may tangle the claws. The other point to consider is a cat may not be able to differentiate a carpeted scratching posts with your carpeted staircase or carpeted floor or even sofa upholstery and proceeded to scratch on all surfaces.

Another important point to consider is that the post must be tall(for vertical posts), or long(for horizontal posts), and wide enough to allow full body and limbs stretching of the cat. Cats usually will scratch with gusto, so it is crucial that the posts are stable and do not wobble or tumble over with the cats full weight leaning on to them. If you are unsure which type of scratching post is most suitable for your cat, you may seek professional opinions or spending some time observing the behavior of neighboring cats or friends’ cats to gain some ideas.

After you have finalized on the scratching post(s) and brought it home. It is best to place the post next to the cat favorite resting place or where it likes to make its marks. Do not forcefully introduce the cat to the post by holding the cat next to it but let the cat discovers the post naturally. You can increase the success rate by placing catnip or a few cat toys on top or near the post to entice the cat to explore. If you have more than one cat in the house, each cat likely wants to stake a claim to a different post.

Finding a perfect scratching post that suit both the feline friend and the owner may take awhile but the reward is very much worthwhile.

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How to Keep Your Cat’s Claws Short

Some 40% of cat population in the United States is infected by a flea-borne bacteria, Bartonella henselae. The bacteria can be found under the claws of cats or in the blood of young kittens. The bacteria can be transmitted to human through skin-breaking scratches or bites, and also through their saliva. In most cases, the bacteria only caused mild flu-like infection with symptoms of high fever, lethargy, and swollen lymph node near the injury points.. However, if left untreated for immune-compromised individuals or young children, the disease can bring forward devastating long term illness or even death.

If you have young children, elderlies, or individuals with severely compromised immune system living in the house, it is advisable to keep your house cat ‘s(or dog’s) claws short to avoid unnecessary scratches. One of the easiest ways to keep your cat’s claws short is to let the cat manages it naturally, through scratching on a few strategically placed good quality cat scratching poles or boards in the house. If the cat is allowed to roam freely outdoor, scratching on tree trunk works just as well. A factory-made good scratching pole is usually made of sisal rope material or similar hardy rough material, carpet-surfaced scratching pole does not provide necessary friction to function well.

For elderly or less active cats, manual claw trimming is highly recommended, not only for scratch prevention but also for ease of mobility and comfort of the cats. Cat owners can opt to send their cats for professional grooming and claw trimming, or if wish so, an owner can trim the cat’s claws as well.

If you choose to trim your cat’s claws at home, it is best to get the cat familiar with paw touching since young. In a quiet, cozy corner, sit down comfortably with your kitten(or adult cat) on your lap, lift up one of the paws, massage it in a soothing manner and take turn to press each pad gently to extend the claws. Release immediately after each press. If your cat resists in any way, do not persist. Try again the day after. Repeat the process until the cat is used to each paw and each pad being touch. Use soothing voice and talk to your cat throughout the session. Some cats find it more comforting to have soft blankets covering their heads or bodily wrapped- up. Experience with different positions to find a situation that is best suitable for your cat and you. After each pad/claw touching session, give your cat its favorite treat so that it can associate the session with pleasure. It is best to keep the most favorite treat for claw clipping session.

When your cat is used to its paw being handled regularly, you can proceed with claw trimming. Pet clippers come in various forms, but scissor-type trimmer usually works well with cat claws. Make sure the trimmer is sharp as dull blades put unnecessary force on sensitive cat claws and caused more splitting of nails. Do not expect to trim all the claws in one sitting unless your cat is especially docile and cooperative. Clip the claw somewhere between the tip of claw and the pinkish section, called the “quick”. Do not clip close to the quick as it contains sensitive nerves and blood vessels. If you accidentally clipped the quick, you can stop blood flow by applying styptic material either in powder or stick form. It is a good idea to have the styptic material next to you when clipping cat’s claws. Offer the cat favorite treat as frequently as needed throughout the session.

Do not try to trim the cat’s claw if either the cat or you are not in a calm mood. Remember to use soothing voice throughout and praise your cat often. Do not yell at the cat or forcefully restrain the cat if it is not willing. It may take days to completely trimming all the claws, just be patient.

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